Context: India’s stagnant garment export performance emphasises the urgent need for policy reforms to scale up the sector and enhance global competitiveness.
Relevance of the Topic: Mains: Garment Sector- significance, challenges, reforms.
State of India's Garment Sector
- India’s textiles and apparel (T&A) sector employs a workforce of 45 million and contributes 2.3% to the overall GDP of India.
- T&A sector has grown steadily from $11.5 billion in FY2001 to $37 billion in FY25. However, its share in global trade remains low (4.2%).
- The apparel segment alone (under HS codes 61 and 62) has an even lower share of 3% ($15.7 billion). Additionally, this share has remained stagnant for the past two decades. In the last few years, apparel exports have declined at an AAGR of -2%.
India has set an ambitious target to increase its T&A exports from $37 billion in FY25 to $100 billion by 2030.
Key Challenges in India’s Garment Sector:
- Lack of scale: Over 80% of India’s apparel units are Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises (MSMEs) which are too small and dispersed. Unlike China and Vietnam, India lacks large, integrated factories that benefit from economies of scale, reducing unit costs, speeding up delivery, and attracting bulk global orders.
- High Interest Rate: Interest rates in India average around 9%, much higher than China (3%) or Vietnam (4.5%). For an industry operating on low margins (~4-5%), this makes investment and expansion economically difficult.
- Outdated Fibre Mix: India’s cotton-to-Man Made Fibre ratio (60:40) contrasts with the global average (30:70), indicating an outdated fibre mix, and the global shift towards man-made fibres.
- Raw Material Cost: MMF (Man-Made Fibres) such as polyester and viscose are 20% costlier in India compared to competitors (Bangladesh, China, Vietnam). Non-tariff barriers like quality control orders hinder MMF-based apparel growth.
- Rigid and Complex Labour Laws: India’s 52 central labour laws have created rigidities, discouraging formal hiring and scale. Overtime wages are legally mandated at 2x hourly pay, compared to 1.25x internationally, raising production costs significantly.
- Low Labour Productivity and Skilling Gaps: A large portion of the workforce is semi-skilled or unskilled, with poor access to modern training. Lack of effective, demand-linked skilling programs reduces efficiency and competitiveness.
Case Study: Shahi Exports
- Founded in 1974 by Sarla Ahuja, Shahi Exports started with just 15 women and has grown into India’s largest apparel exporter.
- It operates 50+ factories, 3 mills, across 8 states, with over 1 lakh workers, 70% women.
- Built scale through vertical integration (80% fabric made in-house), professionalism, and sustainable practices.
- Success of Shahi Exports demonstrates that Indian firms can scale with the right investment, vision, and long-term policy support.
Way Forward
- Capital must be made accessible and affordable for scale-focused investments. A structured capital subsidy of 25-30% linked to the size of the unit can provide the initial push. Five to seven-year tax holiday for units would allow investments to mature and become globally competitive.
- India’s garment sector needs to transition into a fashion-driven industry. To support this, it is crucial to incentivise and invest in MMF-based apparel while removing non-tariff barriers, such as the quality control orders on MMF.
- Simplify labour laws and align overtime wages with global standards to reduce cost burdens. Link MGNREGA funds (say 25-30%) to subsidise labour costs in garment units
- Schemes like SAMARTH should be significantly scaled up to provide short-cycle demand-linked skilling, especially for women.
- Shift from production-based to export-linked incentives to reward global market success.
- At least two of the PM MITRA parks should be developed as garment-focused hubs in labour-abundant states like Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh. This would help reduce worker migration to southern states, lower production costs, support local employment, and foster balanced, inclusive industrial growth across regions.
- Encourage Vertical Integration: support units to produce in-house fabric and processing, improving efficiency and delivery timelines.
India’s garment sector holds immense potential to generate jobs and boost exports, but without bold policy reforms, this opportunity will slip away. Learning from success stories like Shahi Exports and focusing on scale, skilling, and export competitiveness can transform this sector into a global leader.
Also Read: Crisis in Cotton Production in India




